Saturday, September 27, 2008

Myth: The body absorbs cosmetic tattoo pigments.

This simply is not true. If this were the case, any injectable fillers, surgical implants etc would degrade in the body. No, the body does not 'absorb' the cosmetic tattoo pigments. Properly placed pigment particles become affixed to dermal tissue and remain intact. The intensity of 'HUE' diminishes over time, but just like hanging a black shirt outdoors for a year, you would notice a year later that the shirt was no longer black as in the beginning. Color intensity degrades but the color molecules remain intact in the dermal tissue.

One must learn to sift through marketing ploys and have basic understanding of how pigments are manufactured. A terrific article on the processing of pigments may be obtained by referring to http://www.derma-international.com/
Once on the website, see the link: fundmtlFrom_The_Dirt_To_The_Skin.ppt
This is a power point and goes into great detail on exactly how pigments are produced, it dispels much of the misinformation put forth so strongly by marketers in this business.

When choosing a pigment line, the most important issue is to know exactly what is used in making the pigment. IF a manufacturer will not disclose the pigment and dye information, they are hiding something. No one regulates the manufacturing of tattoo colors, so the SPCP (Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals) brought together a manufacturers summit some years back when the explosion of life shattering and disfiguring allergic reactions to a single pigment manufacturer occurred.

The SPCP instituted a full disclosure policy and all pigment vendor-members must comply.
The FDA has a list of pigments and dyes known to be safe for use in FOOD, DRUGS and COSMETICS. By using ONLY these colorants, we can feel quite safe in knowing that what we are putting in peoples skin is at least safe for food, drugs and cosmetics. The big problems arise when non-complying companies add colorants used for INDUSTRIAL use. Obviously, colors meant to be used only for automotive paints, printers ink, etc were NEVER intended for human contact with skin, let ALONE being placed IN the skin!

For a technician to place a product in peoples' skin without knowing what it is, is irresponsible and should be considered criminal.
Our public, our clients are not lab rats. Any pigment supplier who will not make known their ingredients or give Material Safety Data Sheets is hugely unethical and to purchase from any such company is no less irresponsible and contemptible.

If a pigment manufacturer is not an SPCP vendor member, I would never consider purchasing from them, as the SPCP is the only organization currently to have set standards by which pigment manufacturers must abide.

The best cosmetic tattoo pigment line in the world? LIPigments of course!



Q & A with Liza Sims, CPCP:

Permanent Makeup Mythbusters: Permanent Makeup Standards in Training May Surprise the Public

Permanent Makeup Mythbusters: Permanent Makeup Standards in Training May Surprise the Public

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Permanent Makeup Standards in Training May Surprise the Public

2-5 Day Beginner Courses for Permanent Makeup
Permanent Makeup Myth Busters 101
Run an internet search of ‘permanent makeup training’ and you might be astonished to learn the top ‘hits’ offer training courses from 2–5 days.
Learn permanent makeup in 5 days? Is that possible? The ladies behind the makeup counters at Nordstrom receive more training than 5 days and they certainly don’t use needles to apply their wares.

Permanent makeup is a tattoo. It’s not like a tattoo, it is a tattoo, and as such would you consider allowing someone with only 5 days training to permanently alter your face or the face of a loved one?

Due to the lack of regulations from state to state regarding permanent cosmetics, the industry is wide open to greed, misrepresentation and false claims. This combination can result in misery to an unsuspecting and client as well as someone wishing to learn the art of permanent cosmetics.

Never would a self respecting tattoo artist consider apprenticing a fledgling without at least a one year commitment. Professional and respected tattoo artists do not run diploma-mill schools. It’s unheard of and would be an injustice to the public as well as the tattoo profession. Inadequately trained tattooists are commonly referred to as 'scratchers'.

So how can these 'few day' permanent makeup trainers get away with such an irresponsible act of collecting big money from ‘want to be’ permanent makeup technicians and offer so little in return?

The answer is easy: because they can.

It goes back to the lack of regulation. Tattoo artists have traditionally been very responsible with self-regulation, in that they have always held themselves quite accountable and have worked hard to dispel the image of the seedy tattoo parlor of old, especially since the enactment of the OSHA Bloodborne Pathogen Act.

But the permanent cosmetics industry is another story.

It began back in the mid 1980’s with a company called ‘Perma-Derm' owned and operated by a hypnotist burst onto the scene in America with something that was very popular in Asia; permanent cosmetics. They held 2 day classes, usually in hotel meeting rooms, sold supplies, charged a lot of money, gave certificates for “dermalogy’, made big promises about how much money a person could earn and eventually landed in hot water with the Federal Trade Commission.

Result
(1998) (criminal) sentenced to 67 months in jail for contempt
(2004) (criminal) sentenced to 8 months in jail for a second contempt

Contemptuous Conduct
failed to make required disclosures re: permanent makeup classes and misrepresented potential earnings in connection with paralegal training

Underlying Final Order
(1991) misrepresented training and certification given to attendees of his permanent makeup workshop

http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/scofflaw/cases.html

Their fictitious word ‘dermalogy’ was found to be misleading and infer the practice of medicine and their promises of extravagant potential earnings were found to be fraudulent.http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1998/02/dantesen.shtm


But the scene was set. Short term training of large groups became commonplace.

If one looks closely at some of the prominent names involved in short term training, one will see a common denominator. Many are also large supply houses of related equipment, sundries, anesthetics and pigments. So not only is the excited and hopeful student sorely undereducated, but they are convinced to spend thousands of dollars on products before leaving with their ‘certificate’ in hand.

It’s at this point the problem affects the consumer.

For the person considering permanent cosmetic procedures, know this; a certificate on the wall does not mean ‘certified’. Anyone with a printer can produce a certificate. Proper certification can only be obtained from an approved certifying body. A driver’s license is issued only by the Department of Motor Vehicles and no other entity can issue a license to drive regardless of how well a person may drive. This might sound ridiculous but if a person who is considering a permanent cosmetic procedure believes that a practitioner is qualified simply because they say they attended a class and have a certificate to show for it, this DMV analogy will make good sense.

So can a person learn the art of safely applying good permanent cosmetics well in a few days?
No. There is simply too much to learn to expect the average person to master cosmetic tattooing techniques and administer the procedures safely in a such a small time frame.

Can a person expect to be instantly successful upon completion of a cosmetic tattooing class?
No. It takes time to build a portfolio, and to establish a good reputation within the practitioner’s community. Unfortunately, many technicians who have been unsuccessful at making a living from procedures, have turned to training.

The permanent cosmetics industry and the consumer have one saving grace:

The Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP)
The SPCP was founded in 1990 and remains the largest nonprofit individual membership supported organization worldwide. Dedicated to promoting safety, excellence and high professional standards, the SPCP provides innovative learning experiences and education enhancing materials including a professionally developed certification exam, subject matter experts to provide guidance to its members, associated professionals, regulators, media and the general public. The SPCP, through its global membership, sets the highest industry guidelines and standards by applying sound principles of its Code of Ethics http://www.spcp.org


Saturday, August 2, 2008

Permanent Cosmetics Training Manual


A Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals Publication

A long-awaited textbook on the subject of permanent cosmetics:
Permanent Cosmetics –The Foundation of Fundamental Applications
by Marjorie Grimm, CPCP, past president of the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP) is now available for purchase and is due to ship in September. The culmination of this collaborative effort represents the quest to present long sought after facts, while dispelling many myths that have affected the permanent cosmetic industry for decades.

Marjorie (Margie) Grimm began the research for the book in 2005 in collaboration with the SPCP and industry experts. Kate Ciampi, RN, CPCP, David Vidra, LPN, an OSHA Outreach instructor; Elizabeth Finch, CPCP, a bench chemist and Liza Sims, CPCP, an esthetician, were called upon for subject-related factual information in their perspective areas of expertise. In addition to the support and input of industry experts, Marjorie also solicited and received permission to use critical medical and esthetics related data from a selection of cooperative sources. The result of such a broad compilation of research is a comprehensive textbook of information that will be used to affirm existing methodologies and set new standards of practice for the permanent cosmetics industry.

The book is written nonspecific to any device or product, ensuring its objective that the information will be applicable to all, regardless of preferences in this regard, their tenure or interest in the industry. Color photographs are used throughout the textbook, citing unique examples of permanent cosmetic applications that were previously only spoken of in past presentations. In addition to pictorial examples, technical concepts are provided from many perspectives.

This book is written as a resource for the technician, trainer, and student; offering guidelines for new concepts and applications of permanent cosmetics and providing practical and relevant information for all who are associated with the industry.

Permanent Cosmetics-The Foundation of Fundamental Applications is a refreshing infusion of information written for an industry and public eager for facts.



ABOUT THE SOCIETY OF PERMANENT COSMETIC PROFESSIONALS: Creating the Future for the Permanent Cosmetic Industry…

The SPCP was founded in 1990 and remains the largest nonprofit individual membership supported organization worldwide. Dedicated to promoting safety, excellence, and high professional standards, the SPCP provides innovative learning experiences and practice-enhancing materials, a professionally developed certification examination, and subject matter experts to provide guidance to its members, associated professionals, regulators, the media, and the general public. The SPCP, through its global membership, sets industry guidelines and standards by applying sound principles of its Code of Ethics.
http://www.spcp.org


ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Marjorie Grimm, CPCP began her career in permanent cosmetics in 1993, having been impressed with her hairdresser’s permanent eyeliner. This led her to seek education in the industry where she happened to meet Mary Jane Haake at a beauty show in San Jose, who then introduced her to the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals. This introduction to the SPCP would forever change her career path.

Majorie holds the prestigious position as one of the most credentialed people in the permanent cosmetics industry. As an SPCP Director, she was appointed President of the SPCP and served a two-year term from 2003-2005. Marjorie is a recipient of the coveted Industry Leader Award. She has also served as the SPCP’s publicist, legislative consultant, and the assistant editor for the SPCP Quarterly. Marjorie is a certified trainer and subject matter expert. She operates Faces by Design Studio, in both San Jose California, and Seattle Washington.


ABOUT THE BOOK:
TITLE: Permanent Cosmetics
SUBTITLE: The Foundation of Fundamental Applications
PUBLISHER: Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals
AVAILABILITY: http://www.spcp.org Current orders shipped in September, 2008
PRICE: $149 USD; Softcover

Sunday, November 18, 2007

Joan Q. Public Needs Help in Choosing Permanent Makeup, Cosmetics,

Dear Joan Q. Public,
Please start doing some real research into your permanent makeup, permanent cosmetic, cosmetic tattoo or micro pigmentation person-who-let me remind you will be responsible for how your face looks for many years to come!

Understand this first: regardless what name it is advertised as, it is a cosmetic tattoo. Don't let anyone fool you by telling you it's "micro pigmentation". What's THAT??? That would translate to 'small coloring' wouldn't it? It sounds like a made up word for someone who goes queasy at the real word (tattoo) to use. In FACT, that's exactly what it is! Yes indeed, it is a word that a handful of doctors made up so they could 'skate' by the laws and statues that oversee 'tattooing'. They seem to be a clever bunch, but...well, the sad news is that its YOU, Joan Q. Public who is being duped by their cleverness on so many levels.

Permanent Makeup or Cosmetics is a tattoo, its as simple as that.
This isn't to say that a tattoo artist who does body work will be much good at doing one's makeup. With guidance, makeup skills and being open-minded to learning the art of makeup as it translates to tattooing, a body tattooist might become a terrific cosmetic artist. Teryn Darling comes to my mind. She's a little hottie body tattoo artist in Las Vegas who underwent extensive studying to learn the art of tattooed makeup and she now has mastered both types of tattooing.
What's so lovable about Teryn is her lack of pretentiousness. She's humble enough to know it requires constant learning to be good and stay ahead.

Every day there are articles which Google finds for me on permanent makeup and I am appalled each and every day at how incorrect the bulk of the information on permanent cosmetics is and how ridiculous the sales pitches are.

Numerous times daily I receive articles stating that 'ink is injected into the skin'. Technically it isn't exactly incorrect, but why not just say that its 'tattooed' into the dermal layer? Would that be too difficult? Just say what it is! Injections give the impression of hypodermic needles, not tattoo needles.

Joan, you must stop being fooled by parfait names.
Ms. Public, the outcome of your permanent makeup has much to do with you. I think it would scare you to know that over half of the people performing permanent cosmetic services were trained in 1 or 2 day classes! Can you believe that? Yes, Joan, one day a real estate agent or housewife and two days later permanently ravaging faces!
What should you do? What should you look for?
Look at their website.
Look for the SPCP logo.




Joan, you want a professional specialist to commit to the well being of your face, right? If someone is a member in good standing with the SPCP, it shows they are willing to comply with the code of ethics and if they also have take the certificiation exam and earned their CPCP; even better yet.



Check their website. If they train other technicians, how long are their classes? If they GIVE 1-2 day classes, they certainly do not understand or choose to ignore the gravity and potential disaster of such. Run away.

Ask how long they have been doing permanent cosmetics. Mastering permanent makeup doesn’t come easy and easily requires s learning curve. If they tell you “years and years”, ask to see documentation in the form of training certificates to back-up the claim

Talk to some of their clients. If you can't find anyone who knows anyone who this person has done-red flag. Run away.

Ask to see evidence of continuing education. Look for at least 20 hours of advanced training per year; preferably in 1-3 classes only. Training classes of a few hours here and there are less likely to lend much toward true advancement. Technicians might boast of all the shows and conventions they attend. While industry events are fun, they are primarily for investigating new equipment, products and networking! Comprehensive internships are where most true learning takes place.

Ask if the technician hold a CPCP certification. CPCP means Certified Permanent Cosmetic Professional and is an exam given by the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals

Look at the facility. The floor, chairs, countertops should be very clean. All surfaces should be of impervious, non-porous material for adequate disinfection. A “sharps disposal unit” should be visible, and preferably an autoclave for steam sterilization.

If they say they use an 'all disposable' system, the handles could be reused, resulting in a dangerous cross-contamination situation. If they do not have an autoclave, and insist their system is truly 'all disposable', ask to see the disposable units. Are the handles disposable as well as the needle groupings? Is there evidence of needles being disposed of in the sharps container?

Request the technician to design and apply your eyebrows and lip-liner with makeup in your consultation. Artistic ability is important! Do they use stencils for brows? If so, do you want your brows to look like they have been 'stamped' on? The face must wear the brows, not vice-versa. It requires experience and talent to design the facial features. Stencils are fun tools, but are frequently used as a crutch for someone with inadequate design experience and knowledge of morphology of the face. Is their design flattering to your face?

They may be wearing a crisp white lab coat during your interview; it looks impressive. Find out what they wear when performing the service. Remember, the surface of the skin is broken during the procedures and contaminated body fluids my pass on to their sleeves etc. If they do not wear a disposable isolation gown, how do you know that the sleeve touching you during your procedure is not the same sleeve that has touched someone else?

Ask what they use to clean the chair or table after the client is finished. Make them show it to you. Don’t settle for Lysol, it is not OSHA approved and is useless against some viruses. They must use an FDA approved virucidal, germicidal on all impervious surfaces in the work area, even if they cover the chair or table with paper during procedures. Consider your safety!

Choose your technician carefully; after all, you want permanent beauty, not permanent mistakes!
By following this guideline, you should now be able to make an informed decision.